Wolf Watching

As promised an update on my exploits watching wolves in Montana and Wyoming. It's been delayed because I never dreamed I would be so busy.

In early February I flew from Heathrow to Chicago meeting up with several other dog Listeners on the way. After an overnight stop we flew to Bozeman, Montana where the whole group assembled and met our guides Nathan and Linda, biologists who had been involved in the re-introduction of wolves to Yellowstone from its inception to the present. To say that they were knowledgeable would be doing them a grave injustice. They not only seemed to know everything but everyone as well. Nathan had been brought up in Yellowstone and through his research and involvement with the wolf project had met and married Linda. If you want to go on a trip of a life time then you will not do better than to contact them at http://www.wolftracker.com/ they were great from arrival to departure.

As well as Nathan and Linda our group also included Jan Fennell and Dog Listeners not only from the UK and Ireland but also the USA, New Zealand and Belgium. We then had fairly lengthy drive to Gardiner Montana our first base of operations. The weather was cold and the snow deep but we were well equipped and so able to deal with it. The evening of the first day ended with an evening meal and presentation at the Animal Track Education Centre, a place we would come to know well.

The following (and every other) morning we were up, dressed and out in the car park before 0600 to await the arrival of Nathan and Linda. They arrived punctually as always and straight away started dispensing coffee, hot chocolate (my favourite) and breakfast such as hot Danish pastries and other decadent nibbles. It was great! Every morning breakfast was different but always good.

After breakfast it was into the vehicles and off to the Northern Range where we spent a lot of our time in the first phase of the trip in and around Lamar Valley and Slough Creek. we hadn't been on the road long when a lone black wolf popped out onto the road in front of us and disappeared up the bank opposite. It wasn't a well animal and was thought to be a survivor of a pack that had been decimated. Very sad and our hearts went out to her but nature in the raw is a hard taskmaster. We were to see this wolf several times during our stay and she seemed to be holding on, no mean feat for a young animal without the support of a pack.

Every morning we would get to our observation points and the spotting scopes would go up and as always, guided by Nathan and Linda almost at once we would start seeing wolves. I've spoken to people who've been wolf spotting and seen virtually nothing. Everyday we saw something tremendous. We saw three of the major packs in Yellowstone, the Druid Peak pack, the Slough Creek pack (a lot of history between those two) and the seldom seen Leopold pack as well as several unknown wolves. We witnessed the Alphas of the Druids mating, one of the 'unknowns' trying to seduce and lure away at least one of the Druid daughters to start a new pack. We saw wolves at a kill being 'mugged' by ravens. There were just so many behaviours on show. Play, courtship, mating, discipline, relaxation, guarding and parenting. Each of these behaviours invaluable to us in our work with 'canis familiaris' the domestic dog. Throughout the day we would eat a variety of things standing in the snow. Cold meats, cheese, peanut butter maybe some soup. You would think that we would suffer from the cold but we didn't.

Perhaps the hardest physical part of the trip was an uphill snowshoe trek to see an abandoned wolf den. To say that using snowshoes requires a little skill and co-ordination would be an understatement. We made it after much falling over and giggling but of course we had to get back and now we were tired and heading downhill in thin air which makes breating difficult. I really hated gravity that day.

We would watch wolves until it got too dark and then it was back for a freshen up and then to the education centre and the one hot meal of the day while enjoying some tremendous presentations from some of the major names in wolf research. people like Jim Halfpenny, Daniel Stahler, Bob Landis, film maker, who has won an Emmy for his films on Yellowstone wolves. He showed us, as yet unshown footage for his next film. we were entertained one lunchtime at the home of Dan Hartman naturalist and wildlife photographer. The beauty of where Dan lives is just amazing. This is a word that was used a lot by our group, so much so that it was banned. It cost anyone saying amazing in any context a bottle of wine. It was at Dan's house that I took a picture of a Pine Marten of which I'm quite proud.

Although the object of the trip was to research wolves and that's what we did on most days from morning 'til night we also saw a host of other wildlife and their behaviours such as coyotes, also a fascinating animal one of whom came very close to me in the field. He was wearing a radio collar so that he could be tracked. We also saw Bison, the most dangerous animals in the park, Elk, Pronghorns and all manner of birds including Bald Eagles that I felt a certain affinity with. We did not see any bears in the wild as they were hibernating although we did see several in a rescue centre that had been orphaned.

For the second part of the trip we were based in the town of West Yellowstone a bit more modern than Gardiner which gave us access to other areas of the park and its wildlife. It was from here that we had a tracked 'snow coach' to visit the area around 'Old Faithful'. The trip was eventful from the start when we waited in vain for the coach. Several phone calls and another wait later it turned up. Its appearance didn't fill me with confidence as we were travelling a fair distance into a hostile environment where mobile phones didn't work. We set off and the vehicle didn't sound or feel right. As the morale officer I was saying things like "we're going to break down". or "I can smell burning". Unusually I was right, because it was at this point that the vehicle filled with smoke and steam and we came to a halt. Luckily the vehicle was fitted with a radio and a replacement vehicle was brought out to us. This was much newer and more comfortable so we continued our journey. we visited 'Old Faithful' and saw it blow, this was probably the only part of the whole trip that didn't impress me. It was OK but I was expecting something earthshaking but it just went 'phut, phut.........phut, phut, phut' and then a mild 'whoosh' and it was all over. It's only well known because of its regularity. Some of the other geysers, and there are many, I found much more interesting because you just never know, if.....or when? Particularly when I found that some of the geysers we were looking at featured in a book I'd bought about 'Death in Yellowstone' one of the two most bought books in the park. I also bought a copy of the second most popular for my grandson, James. It is the delightfully titled 'Who Pooped in the Park?'

This final part of our trip gave us some time in the evenings and we were able to discover a local restaurant and bar by the name of 'Bullwinkles' where we had some good times. the locals wherever we went were really friendly but at Bullwinkles after having had a whole cow on your plate we were able to relax and mingle with the locals over a glass of the local beer 'Moose Drool' or, for the ladies, a glass of wine from the local label 'Three Blind Moose' I'm sure you've heard the saying "it does what it says on the label"?

At the end of our stay we all agreed that we'd had a wonderful time and that we would return, it was a fabulous experience. Although I'm not allowed to say amazing, I will say that I now know why Americans say 'Awesome' so much, because it is.

If you get the chance to see the wolves just do it. If you want five star comfort and spas save your money but if you want tremendous company, amazing (there I've said it and don't care) experiences, warm, clean basic hotels and don't forget............MOOSE DROOL!!!!! Then book now.

Crufts 2008

As you may have read in an earlier blog, a friend and colleague of mine Caroline Spencer have been supporting the rehabilitation of two dogs, Nowzad and Tali rescued by Royal Marine Sergeant 'Penny' Farthing from the abuse they were suffering in Afghanistan. They now live a life of luxury with Pen and his wife Lisa in the UK.

This connection is timely because the theme for the 2008 International Day of the Dog (IDOD) is rescue dogs and if ever dogs were in need of rescue, these were. IDOD is an event that takes place every April and is the brainchild of Jan Fennell 'The Doglistener', pioneer of the 'Amichien Bonding' method of canine communication.

Nowzad and Tali were one of five nominees for the Kennel Clubs 'Friends for Life' award which is awarded following a phone in vote by viewers to the BBC's Crufts programmes. The award ceremony is a huge event and can be overwhelming to both humans and dogs. It takes place in an arena in front of a crowd of 7000 and is screened live around the world to countless millions. A daunting prospect for anyone but the other nominees included an autistic boy, an 11 year old girl with cerebal palsy (the eventual winner) who had been virtually confined to a wheelchair until her dog gave her the confidence to start walking. There were also two ladies with severe mobility problems whose dogs, one a Newfoundland the other a black German Shepherd had given them their lives back. Every one of the six dogs nominated would have been a worthy winner.

Caroline and I had gone to Crufts to offer support to Pen and Lisa, not in a partisan way but to ensure that the dogs went into that arena in a calm state of mind to do otherwise would not be right. Until the end of 2007 they had lived their lives in a war zone. Why should they trust a human unless he dressed as a Royal Marine? It was important that Pen and Lisa knew we were there, they knew what they had to do but they didn't want us with them every waking minute. We stressed to them the techniques that they had to work on right up to the big moment. As long as they knew that at any time if there was a problem we were able to be with them within minutes to resolve the situation. We also had to be at the arena entrance to make that final decision at the very last moment, how are the dogs going to cope? Are there going to be be both humans and dogs in the arena or only one or even no dogs just Pen and Lisa?

Because as always, we have the interests of all dogs at heart we were, with the blessing of the Kennel Club able to work with and offer assistance to all of the nominees and dogs. They were all delightful people with wonderfully supportive families. Obviously in a time frame of a couple of days we can't deal with every problem but that was not our aim. We just needed to ensure that both owner and dog were happy throughout the ceremony and not subjected to any undue stress.

It was my turn to drive and so because I was having a lady passenger, the day before we travelled I washed my car and discovered that I own a blue one. I then cleaned the interior and removed the old newspapers and cleared the pens (32 in number) from the front passenger seat and filled the fuel tank. I was leaving at 5.30 am and so wanted everything ready so that I could get in and go. Just before going to bed I had to do a pick up job, it was at this point that one of my headlights decided to pack up obviously a taster of what was to come. To change a headlight on my car requires a degree in advanced electrical engineering and hands the size of a three year old. Late at night with an early start and long drive ahead the prospect filled me with dread. I knew that if I attempted it I'd be left with skinned knuckles and a foul temper. My wife then suggested I take her car as she wouldn't need a vehicle until daylight and could use mine. Problem solved, I transferred all my luggage, refuelled (again) and was ready to go.

The following morning I set off as planned, picked up Caroline en route and headed for Birmingham. We decided to go and locate our hotel first because as our decision to go to Crufts had been taken only in the past few weeks all the hotels near the venue were booked solid. We managed to find accomodation at an establishment some distance away that was clearly modelled on Bate's Motel. Having found the place and so understanding why they had vacancies, we headed for the show.

If you have never been to the NEC at Birmingham let me tell you that it is a very impressive range of halls. The car parks are massive and managed in a very unusual way. Normally the first arrivals at a venue are placed closest to the event, not at the NEC, the first arrivals are placed in the car parks furthest away. When you realise that this could place you just a little bit north of Manchester you begin to sense the annoyance felt when you realise that the people who didn't get out of bed until after lunch are able to park by the front door.

We were placed in car park North 12. It was so far north that all the staff were Glaswegian. There are shuttle buses to the doors which are free after you've paid your £8 parking charge but the queues were horrendous so, having been told that it was only a 10 minute walk we decided on that option. There is a different perception of time and distance in Birmingham but eventually after coming across several remote South American tribes we arrived at the doors only to discover that they were at the opposite end of the complex to the show itself but unfazed we pushed on.

Huge, crowded and noisy are the words to come to mind. when I was in Montana recently watching wolves (blog to follow) I saw on US tv reports of a prestigious dog show which was reported as "The Worlds Biggest Dog Show" they boasted of having "over 2000 dogs competing". At Crufts I saw competitors wearing numbers well over 20,000. There are an array of halls used with breeds being judged, agility competitions and all manner of dog related activities. There were also countless stalls selling everything from really useful equipment to tasteless rubbish. For me the slate clocks with the naff pictures of various breeds of dogs on them got my 'DelBoy, Most Favourite Piece of Tat Award' although the reflective dog bandanas came a very close second.

As previously mentioned the day progressed and Caroline and I developed a rapport with the Kennel Club staff dealing with the Friends fo Life Awards, and got involved not only with Pen and Lisa but with the other nominees as well. We were heavily involved in the rehearsals which take place after the show closes to the public on Saturday evening. By the time we left to return to the car it was like a ghost town. All the Nominees, Kennel Club and BBC staff were staying at the Hilton Hotel directly opposite the NEC. We looked at the signposts and found ones that directed us to the South and East car parks but nothing else, I then found a sign mentioning North car park but it was preceded with the words 'No Access to'. We walked and walked until we found a security hut. when we asked the way the guard was helpful but couldn't supress a laugh. He pointed us in the right direction? And off we went again, two further encounters with security guards and over three quarters of an hour later we found my car, alone, in a vast empty carpark, no wonder it was whimpering. At last, back to the hotel and some food. Yeah right! We followed the directions to the exit only to find locked gates! We turned around and drove through the complex following various exit signs all of which led to more locked gates. Suddenly there were no security guards to be found, they were all probably rolling around on the floor laughing, watching us on cctv. Eventually more by luck than judgement we found the only unlocked exit from the site which for some reason did not have an exit sign.

On our return to our hotel we asked about getting a meal, no chance, it was Saturday night and they did have a large restaurant but they weren't able to do food although they could sell us a packet of crisps in the bar. When we asked about other options we were given a choice between the Indian Restaurant across the other side of the dual carriageway and, oh I forgot, there was no other choice. We had a nice stroll to the eating place via the seductively lit, urine drenched underpass which although unpleasant did mask the smell of diesel.

On reaching the restaurant we were quite concerned, we were starving and it was Saturday night in Birmingham the curry centre of the UK. Would they have a table for us? We were lucky, they did have a table for us, in fact they had all the tables for us. The place was empty but no problem, that meant we'd get served quickly before the late night rush came in, wrong again. Still looking on the bright side the wait must mean that our meal is being lovingly prepared, the herbs and spices being hand crafted by ancient 'spice gurus'. If you can't get a good curry in Birmingham where can you? I don't know, I just know that you can't in this particular one. The meal when it arrived was awful. I've seen better looking fatal accidents and it tasted dreadful. The only saving grace was that the portions were small. When we left we still the only customers hmmmm, I wonder why!

Sunday arrived, the big day and we had an early start. We strode into the hotel carpark and I pressed the remote unlocking button on my car keys and nothing happened. After trying several more times I realised that the battery in the key must need replacing, strange as it's a fairly new car. After opening the car manually we found that it would not start. It was at this stage that I lost the will to live but, undeterred, I did a thorough, in depth mechanical evaluation and discovered that someone (I have no idea who) had left the lights on all night. Luckily a good Samaritan came to our aid with a magic battery booster and all was well. Nobody ever need know unless my wife reads this blog, Doh!!!

On our arrival at the NEC we found ourselves in carpark North 10B which seemed to be even further away than Saturdays North 12. at least we knew where we were going this time and were able to get straight to work. We spent the day moving between the NEC and Hilton Hotel, working with those nominees that wanted help or assistance of any sort as well as making sure that people were in the right place at the right time and in the right frame of mind. This was made a little difficult when while escorting the nominees to a suite where a buffet and recption had been arranged for them we were denied access by security who were utterley unconcerned that these people had passes and most had mobility problems. I even pointed out that these people had their pictures and stories across several pages of the official programme and were being shown nightly on BBC tv. After a lot of flared nostrils and intervention from the highest level of the Kennel Club our party was allowed through. It did solve one mystery, if you ever wonder what happened to the Krankies now that they are no longer on tv I can tell you. They are working as security guards at the NEC.

When the big moment came all the dogs went into the arena and behaved beautifully. Just prior to their entrance Pen and Lisa were in the holding area doing some exercises with Nowzad and Tali designed to focus the dogs attention on them and disregard the noise and lights in the arena. At this stage some complete moron, a member of a 'Dog Training' club complete with heavily logoed polo shirt tried to stare Nowzad out. A stupid move for anyone, but for a man who was so full of his own wind and importance about how 'good' he was with dogs it was criminal. he took an aggressive stance like a nightclub doorman and kept moving so that he could maintain eye contact which as all real dog people know is a challenge when done in that manner. Caroline told Pen to keep turning away from the threat and keep his pulse rate down so that Nowzad was not stressed. Both Caroline and I asked this man to desist but he ignored us, Pen was remarkably restrained which was great because had he reacted Nowzad would have lost the plot. I on the other hand was probably a bit more 'proactive' and had a full and frank exchange of opinions with this man, I'd had my fill of fools for that day.

Once the presentation was over we were ready for home. We even managed to get a shuttle bus to the carpark and find my car. Would it start? Yes!! We weren't even fazed when as on the previous night the gates had all been locked, we knew where to go. We arrived home very tired, it had been a hectic couple of days but we both felt that we had achieved something really worthwhile. We hope to build on the advances and contacts we made.